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Mario
Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 19
Location: Denmark, Copenhagen
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| Code 0 Posted: Tue 01 Dec 09, 17:21 |
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| Is there anybody who has Code 0? on a roller? I am looking for spec., and would like to hear how it works in practice. |
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Valentin
Joined: 28 Jun 2009
Posts: 5
Location: USA, New York & Rhode Island
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| Re: Code 0 Posted: Mon 21 Dec 09, 0:29 |
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| Mario wrote: | | Is there anybody who has Code 0? on a roller? I am looking for spec., and would like to hear how it works in practice. |
Hi Mario, I have a Code 0 on my 35 Ultimate. It that was made by Elvstrom in the same material as the new main sail and genoa, I believe it is called Genesis Black Technora with EMT (Elstrom Membrane Technology), and has an area of 75 square meters. It attaches to the tack line on bow sprit with an endless furler. I got it directly through Quorning.
Since I only got my boat at the beginning of September, I did not have a chance to use it much yet. I have only tried it in very light wind so far, and it was pretty easy to handle: It comes with an endless furler that goes back towards the cockpit, with a block attached at the far end that has an elastic to stretch the endless line system. So far, I had attached the elastic to the lifting eye at the rear beam, where I can easily grab it from the cockpit to furl and unfurl.
Handling the sail in light wind was very easy, and I could furl and unfurl it in a few seconds by hand for either gybing or taking. I have heard the suggestion that I may need to attach a line either to the bow, or use the barber haulers, to attach to the tack line loop or the furler to prevent the line from twisting rather than turning the furler, but so far, this was not necessary.
The boat speed in light wind seemed really great, but I haven't sailed it in more than 4-5 knots of true. In those conditions, I would get at least 1 knot more boat speed with the code 0 than with the genoa (and we can easily surpass true wind speed with the genoa in light wind). I can tell you more next spring when I will get to use it some more, and in a wider range of conditions.
The one thing to be aware of is that if you plan to store it rolled and folded, it will take a lot of space in your ama since you don't want to roll it tightly for that, and also only loosely fold it. If you are planning to use it for racing, you can keep the Code 0 in one ama, and the spinnaker in the other - I think that keeping both in the same will be tough, especially when you try to hoist or lower either one.
If you manage to take down the sail unfurled and fold it, it would take much less space, but I cannot imagine doing it in any kind of wind - it is really quite big, bigger than the main sail.
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DF 35 No. 27
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Mario
Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 19
Location: Denmark, Copenhagen
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| Posted: Mon 21 Dec 09, 21:11 |
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Thank so much for your answer Valentin. Most Code0 producers recommend use of a torsion line sewed into the sail or standing separate as kind of forestay. I understand that you don’t have the torsion line, and the system is functioning well. Great! What furler mark have you got? I planned to use lifting eye at the rear beam as a sheeting point but I am bit afraid that upper spreaders are so wide that it can be difficult to flatten the sail in its upper parts. What do you think about it? Is your sheeting point for Code0 the same as for gennaker (ca. mid-beam)? And how you correct the tension of the after-leech while going upwind?
There are many types of Code0- they differ mainly in midgirth size. Do you may be know the parameters of your Code0: length of luff, foot, haed-clew, and midgirth? I would like to sew it in Optic 2 of dp during this winter.
Best wishes and very Merry Christmas
Mario |
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Valentin
Joined: 28 Jun 2009
Posts: 5
Location: USA, New York & Rhode Island
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| Posted: Tue 22 Dec 09, 7:15 |
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Unfortunately, I don't have the parameters for the Code 0.
Technically, I think current rules require the midgirth to be at least 75% of the foot to count as a spinnaker rather than a genoa for measurement, so I am pretty sure that it fulfills this. That said, I have not checked this, and just looking at the sail, it really looks a lot like a huge genoa on the sprit, and can be made surprisingly flat.
There is a stainless line inside the leach that kind of works like a forestay, and allows the sail to be flattened quite nicely. If you do get some wind, it will put a lot of load on the rigging according to the dealer  .
The sheeting point is the same as for the asymmetric spinnaker, which I think is about 3/4 out on the beam on my boat. It is so close to the point where the preventers / boom vang are that although I was told I could use a barber hauler to this point, I am not sure it would make a lot of sense, but I will try.
I was also contemplating running the sheeting point to the lifting eye, and having a barber hauler to the preventer / vang attachment point so I would have maximum flexibility in opening the leech and trimming the sail, but it is possible that it will either close the leech too much, or that the spreaders will get in the way. In my experience, opening the genoa with the barber hauler just a little bit does a lot for your speed, so I suspect that there is not too much point in closing the leech too much on the Code 0, particularly since you don't really use it on a beat, but I may try next season anyhow .
I have not had to correct the tension of the after-leech yet since I only sailed in light wind. I don't remember if it had a line for this like in the genoa, but I would suspect so.
I think the furler is made by Fancor, but I am not sure which size. I am heading down to my boat in January, and I can check for you if you would like me to. It will probably be tough to take out the whole Code 0 unless it is really a wind free day, and I have removed my trampolines so I am not sure where to put it without getting it dirty, but if you can wait until spring, I can certainly measure it and give you all the parameters.
Best wishes to you and a Merry Christmas as well,
Valentin
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DF 35 No. 27
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Double Horizon
Joined: 09 May 2007
Posts: 143
Location: USA
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| Posted: Tue 22 Dec 09, 17:32 |
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| Mario wrote: | Thank so much for your answer Valentin. Most Code0 producers recommend use of a torsion line sewed into the sail or standing separate as kind of forestay. I understand that you don’t have the torsion line, and the system is functioning well. Great! What furler mark have you got? I planned to use lifting eye at the rear beam as a sheeting point but I am bit afraid that upper spreaders are so wide that it can be difficult to flatten the sail in its upper parts. What do you think about it? Is your sheeting point for Code0 the same as for gennaker (ca. mid-beam)? And how you correct the tension of the after-leech while going upwind?
There are many types of Code0- they differ mainly in midgirth size. Do you may be know the parameters of your Code0: length of luff, foot, haed-clew, and midgirth? I would like to sew it in Optic 2 of dp during this winter.
Best wishes and very Merry Christmas
Mario |
Mario I suggest you work with your sail maker to get what you want. If you interview several sail makers you will get different suggestions and hear experienced opinions, and you will learn from each. Ideally you should work with someone who has multihull experience -- because the higher apparent winds of a multihull should affect sail shape and cloth weight. No matter what you do it will not be ideal for all circumstances, and there are many trade-offs. If you race, you will also need to consider measurement rules in your decision.
On my 920 I used a flat reacher cut as a #1 Genoa, sheeted to to the aft beam lifting eye, and barber-hauled out as needed; a "tape drive" sail made by UK Sail-makers in the US. On my 1000 I used a similar sail made by Sobstad in the US, also sheeted to the aft beam lifting eye, and barberhauled out as needed. That wasn't as good.
For the 1200 I had the opportunity to test a "screacher" specified by Quorning and made in Denmark. It was a very large sail and a heavy weight fabric -- too heavy to handle by anyone other than a weightlifter  . After that I decided to go with the lightest sail cloth the sail maker would recommend, and go small/flatter for optimum upwind performance in light air, considering I also own an asymmetric spinnaker. I ordered a #1 flat-cut Genoa "code zero" made by North Sails sheeted to the same cabin-top genoa cars as the standard genoa (but mounted from the bowsprit and spinnaker halyard). It too is barberhauled out as-needed. That works OK but the sheeting point is too far inboard (so I always need to barberhaul) and I should have gone for the bigger sail and sheeted to the aft beam lifting eye.
In my experience with barberhauling these "Code 0" "reacher" or "screacher" light-air genoa type sails on all three boats (all-else equal) a longer foot requires the ideal sheeting point to be further outboard from the centerline (on close reach) than a shorter foot dimension. Generally on a close reach it will be between the mid-point and the inboard lifting eye of the aft beam, and if you come all the way in to the lifting eye (no barberhaul) the VMG to windward will not be as fast as it would if you ease the sheet outward and fall off the wind a bit with the helm.
Some other notes: The Facnor furler is very nice, and works well, although expensive. The spreaders will not interfere except when crossing through the wind when tacking -- you would do better to gybe the sail rather than come-about, and either bring it across out front by leading the sheets around the outside (in front of the sail), or it helps tp partially furl those sails before bringing through the slot in front of the fixed genoa. If you rig it to bring it around outside, you should add a short extension to your sprit so the lazy sheet is less likely to go into the water and under the boat.
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Larry - DF-1200 Double Horizon |
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