I am planning a single handed trip round the UK, considering fitting jackstays, has anyone done this?
Views on mounting points?
If I'm going to drill the hull will large diameter washers (we call them penny wahshers) be sufficient to spread the load?
Regards
Matthew
Jackstays
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I'm not familiar with the term Jackstay, but if it's the same as Jackline (to attach a safety tether) then you should not drill:
On each side of the boat, attach the forward end of the Jackline to the bow mooring cleat, and attach the aft end to the aft lifting eye on top of the aft beam base. Those are both ready-made strong points.
Do not run it all the way back to the stern cleats. If you go overboard you will be dragged behind the boat, whereas if you went overboard at the aft beam there is a chance you could climb back up on the waterstay.
On each side of the boat, attach the forward end of the Jackline to the bow mooring cleat, and attach the aft end to the aft lifting eye on top of the aft beam base. Those are both ready-made strong points.
Do not run it all the way back to the stern cleats. If you go overboard you will be dragged behind the boat, whereas if you went overboard at the aft beam there is a chance you could climb back up on the waterstay.
Larry - Former Owner DF-1200
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If no lifting eye aft, perhaps you could loop it around the aft beam and attach the free end at the bow cleat? No drilling and easy and secure.MJF wrote:Hi, thanks a good idea for the front end, but my 800 is a SW and doesn't have a lifting eye but appreciate the need to finish it short of the rear cleat.
If you do end up mounting a fitting, it should be rated for at least 3000 kilo WLL and mounted in solid fiberglass (not cored) using a backing plate that is thick enough and covering enough area to spread the substantial shock load. If you are falling the dynamic load required on a tether is quite large when it snaps taught at the end of its travel. Like a tied dog running to the end of it's lead

Larry - Former Owner DF-1200