Barberhaul
Barberhaul
Detailed Drawings for Barberhaul
[originally from: Bo Wetzel, France, 16 Aug 2002]
I've prepared two pages with drawings and details for the
Barberhaul and Genoa
Barberhaul and Spinnaker
The same/similar arrangement ought to be usable on any size Dragonfly.
[originally from: Bo Wetzel, France, 16 Aug 2002]
I've prepared two pages with drawings and details for the
Barberhaul and Genoa
Barberhaul and Spinnaker
The same/similar arrangement ought to be usable on any size Dragonfly.
Last edited by Bo Wetzel on Tue 31 Oct 06, 16:56, edited 1 time in total.
Barberhaul - how it's done:
[originally from: John Leadbetter, Denmark, 10 Aug 2002]
Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!

Here are a few pictures, that should show how the barberhauls are fitted.
Red sheet is the jib sheet, green is the spinnaker sheet, and the white line is the barberhaul.
When barberhauls are used for the spinnaker, the genoa sheet must be fully released.
Please click on any of the photos to see them enlarged!


Here are a few pictures, that should show how the barberhauls are fitted.
Red sheet is the jib sheet, green is the spinnaker sheet, and the white line is the barberhaul.
When barberhauls are used for the spinnaker, the genoa sheet must be fully released.
Barberhaul - does it work
Hi Bo
Been looking at your post - do you have extra long genoa sheet? Or do you remove the twin-block when changing from genoa to spinnaker?
Does not a long genoa sheet get easily twisted?
Christian
Been looking at your post - do you have extra long genoa sheet? Or do you remove the twin-block when changing from genoa to spinnaker?
Does not a long genoa sheet get easily twisted?
Christian
Barberhauler: Genoa sheets
Hello Christian
The sheets need to be long enough to go to outer end of the forward beam and back to the winch/cleat next to the hatch. I don't know if my sheets were 'extra long' as it all came with the boat.
You don't remove the twin blocks when using the spi. You just end up with the genoa sheets crossing the trampolines. This can be a bit of a nuisance for people using the 'terraces' for sun bathing but otherwise there is no problem with twisting sheets etc.
Bo
The sheets need to be long enough to go to outer end of the forward beam and back to the winch/cleat next to the hatch. I don't know if my sheets were 'extra long' as it all came with the boat.
You don't remove the twin blocks when using the spi. You just end up with the genoa sheets crossing the trampolines. This can be a bit of a nuisance for people using the 'terraces' for sun bathing but otherwise there is no problem with twisting sheets etc.
Bo
Hi Bo
I found it disturbing with an "lose" block on the foresail sheet going up-wind. So I got a snatch block, when I need spri - I attach the spinnaker sheet as a spri with the snatch block. Going up-wind the spinnaker sheet and the snatch block is attached to the shroud - just to get out of the way. When making the spinnaker ready I bring the sheets to fordeck (without the snatch block) - roll in the foresail first and then release the "tube". The tube needs free space to fill the spinnaker - so it works best if the foresail is gone.
This way it is less roops going up and down.
Christian
I found it disturbing with an "lose" block on the foresail sheet going up-wind. So I got a snatch block, when I need spri - I attach the spinnaker sheet as a spri with the snatch block. Going up-wind the spinnaker sheet and the snatch block is attached to the shroud - just to get out of the way. When making the spinnaker ready I bring the sheets to fordeck (without the snatch block) - roll in the foresail first and then release the "tube". The tube needs free space to fill the spinnaker - so it works best if the foresail is gone.
This way it is less roops going up and down.
Christian
Asymmetrical spinnaker
Would this be the same for an asymmetrical spinnaker with bow sprit?
Christine

Christine
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Christine:
The barberhaul system that is described above is a time proven system. Set up correctly, it really works well!
It was designed also to use as the spinnaker bridal, before bow spirt poles.
I do not use my barberhauler when I use my spinnaker.
It goes to a set of turning blocks located at the aft of each amma. It then goes to a winch.
Be very cautious when using this sail. You can find yourself over your head very quickly.
Remember - learn to walk, before you can run!
Read up on spinnaker handling on a multihull.
Have fun
Ted
The barberhaul system that is described above is a time proven system. Set up correctly, it really works well!
It was designed also to use as the spinnaker bridal, before bow spirt poles.
I do not use my barberhauler when I use my spinnaker.
It goes to a set of turning blocks located at the aft of each amma. It then goes to a winch.
Be very cautious when using this sail. You can find yourself over your head very quickly.
Remember - learn to walk, before you can run!
Read up on spinnaker handling on a multihull.
Have fun
Ted
Ted Paliwoda
D'Fly 1000 ; HN #1
Nice Tri
Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, NJ, USA
D'Fly 1000 ; HN #1
Nice Tri
Raritan YC, Perth Amboy, NJ, USA
Christine
I have not seen how sheets for an asymmetric spinnaker are mounted. But I doubt it will work. Off cause there is always some workaround.
The point with a spri is to pull the sheet for the foresail toward the amma going downwind, to keep the foresail on the other side. (Compared with the mainsail) What you want is a pulling force from the end of the front beam. Don’t think the asymmetric spinnaker has a fixed position there. Using the regular spinnaker sheet two positions are used to create this force – the block in the front and the block at the end of the aft beam. If you need a spri when you don’t want to mount the spinnaker – there is always some way to mount and extra rope/.-)
Christian
I have not seen how sheets for an asymmetric spinnaker are mounted. But I doubt it will work. Off cause there is always some workaround.
The point with a spri is to pull the sheet for the foresail toward the amma going downwind, to keep the foresail on the other side. (Compared with the mainsail) What you want is a pulling force from the end of the front beam. Don’t think the asymmetric spinnaker has a fixed position there. Using the regular spinnaker sheet two positions are used to create this force – the block in the front and the block at the end of the aft beam. If you need a spri when you don’t want to mount the spinnaker – there is always some way to mount and extra rope/.-)
Christian
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Re: Barberhaul
Problems with ratchet blocks.
On the other side of my DF1000R I do have an original Frederiksen 70-series Ratchet Block at the outer end of rear aka, but unfortenately on the other side it broke down about one year ago. Since then I have replaced it with two pieces of Ronstan 55-series and after that with two pieces of Ronstan 70-series ratchet blocks. All broke down, no more brake left.
http://www.ronstan.com/info/practicalsa ... rticle.asp shows Ronstan should be the right choice, but...
My genoa is about 24 sqm and my Code0 is about 45sqm.
Any ideas what to try next? Has anyone tried Wichard products here?
On the other side of my DF1000R I do have an original Frederiksen 70-series Ratchet Block at the outer end of rear aka, but unfortenately on the other side it broke down about one year ago. Since then I have replaced it with two pieces of Ronstan 55-series and after that with two pieces of Ronstan 70-series ratchet blocks. All broke down, no more brake left.
http://www.ronstan.com/info/practicalsa ... rticle.asp shows Ronstan should be the right choice, but...

My genoa is about 24 sqm and my Code0 is about 45sqm.
Any ideas what to try next? Has anyone tried Wichard products here?
Mika Harju
DF1000 Racing #8
DF1000 Racing #8
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On my 920, the original Fredriksen ratchet blocks failed after 1 year. I contacted Ronstan (who purchased Fredriksen at the time) and Ronstan replaced the blocks with Ronstan ratchet that were 1 size larger.
Unfortunately, I don't remember the sizes, but I think my blocks are at least 70mm if not 80mm. I think your blocks are undersized since your sails are larger than 920 sails.
The new Ronstan blocks are fine after 4 years. However, I use them only with my screecher (33 m) and not very often.
Also, my blocks failed in the head of the block, not in the ratchet.
I would recommend contacting Ronstan. They may replace your blocks under warranty. They will also tell you the right size of the block to use.
Unfortunately, I don't remember the sizes, but I think my blocks are at least 70mm if not 80mm. I think your blocks are undersized since your sails are larger than 920 sails.
The new Ronstan blocks are fine after 4 years. However, I use them only with my screecher (33 m) and not very often.
Also, my blocks failed in the head of the block, not in the ratchet.
I would recommend contacting Ronstan. They may replace your blocks under warranty. They will also tell you the right size of the block to use.
-
- Posts: 213
- Joined: Wed 01 Nov 06, 19:58
- Your Country: USA, Long Island Sound
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- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu 02 Nov 06, 13:19
- Your Country: Finland, Turku
I do also always use clamcleats, but it is much easier to operate barbehaulers in heavier wind conditions when rachet blocks are in use. In very hard wind I do also use the main winch on the opposite side of the boat. When one releases the rope from winch it is much easier to get it to the clamcleat if the rachet brake prevents the rope to run freely out.gminkovsky wrote:I should have clarified that I use ratchet blocks for screecher sheets. I use regular non-ratchet blocks for the barberhauler.
Why do you use ratchet blocks for barberhaulers? I don't hold barberhauler lines in my hands, they are always cleated in camcleats.
Mika Harju
DF1000 Racing #8
DF1000 Racing #8
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Ronstan 70 series rachet block is the biggest one available from Ronstan (or Harken). I think I need to try some other product.gminkovsky wrote:On my 920, the original Fredriksen ratchet blocks failed after 1 year. I contacted Ronstan (who purchased Fredriksen at the time) and Ronstan replaced the blocks with Ronstan ratchet that were 1 size larger.
Unfortunately, I don't remember the sizes, but I think my blocks are at least 70mm if not 80mm. I think your blocks are undersized since your sails are larger than 920 sails.
The new Ronstan blocks are fine after 4 years. However, I use them only with my screecher (33 m) and not very often.
Also, my blocks failed in the head of the block, not in the ratchet.
I would recommend contacting Ronstan. They may replace your blocks under warranty. They will also tell you the right size of the block to use.
Mika Harju
DF1000 Racing #8
DF1000 Racing #8
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- Your Country: Germany
The orginal block is from Frederiksen it is today made by Ronstan. https://www.ronstan.com/marine/story.as ... on=gallery
F. Matthies DF 800SW