Barberhaul:

from: Stephen Bondelid:

Barberhauler/Spinnaker-Guy set-up
Here is how I have my barberhaulers set up for a symmetrical spi. I have a block on the ama tip, and the barberhauler terminated at the forward end of the aka with a block. A simple knot unties quickly and I am ready for the spi with no hassle of having to attach blocks.

Please click on the photo to see it enlarged

Thanks to John for the pictures, and I will try to mount the barberhaul as in the picture. Whats is the advantage using them when sailing with the spinnaker?

Thanks again!!!
[The answer can be found below under SAILS!]

Here are a few pictures, that should show how the barberhauls are fitted.

Red sheet is the jib sheet, green is the spinnaker sheet, and the white line is the barberhaul.

When barberhauls are used for the spinnaker, the genoa sheet must be fully released.

see also seperate User Forum pages:

Hi, New DF800 owner here.

I just wonder if someone could explain the strategy for using the mast rotation preventer.

Rigging bolt

On a DF 800 the roopes that come out at the bottom of the mast around a wheel. The wheels are held in place by a bolt with the diameter 8,8 mm and a total length of 36 mm.

Where can I find such a bolt?

I have checked a lot of dealers in Norway and Sweden and nobody has this dimension.

Thanks in advance.

Is there anybody who could tell me some guidelines for lowering the mast down (opposite of stepping the mast) on my Dragonfly 800 MKII?

Thanks in advance.

Congratulations on becoming a Dragonfly Sailor! —

1) On my DF 800 the lazy jack system is capable of supporting the boom. Two lines extend from the spreaders down to small blocks. A single line is reeved through the blocks and through the boom in two places to form the cradle for the sail. This line goes to a “clam” cleat, where it can be adjusted so that the lazy jacks directly support the boom off the deck as the sail is lowered. I assumed this was the standard system? Anyhow, it works very well. Before lowering the main, take up slack in the lazy jacks and fix in the clam cleat. Lower the main, attach the main halyard to the end of the boom. Top up the boom, then slack off the lazy jacks again to take side pressure off the rolled up sail.

2) Regarding the spinnaker, you have certainly made an in depth study of the system for a symmetrical spinnaker. I venture to guess that no one has thought so hard about it in quite awhile! For the last few years, I think most trimarans are fitted with asymmetrical spinnakers using a bow pole. This eliminates many of the issues you raised. it is a much more powerful set up. I would recommend you just run the spinnaker system “by the book” for now, until you can upgrade to a larger asymmetrical spinnaker setup. In general, spinnaker handling is much easier with an “ATN” sock which slides down over the spinnaker from the masthead and controls it neatly. This can work with symmetrical or asymmetrical sail. Website is as follows: “http://www.atninc.com/sleeve.html” This is a more effective solution than consuming deck or tramp space with a horizontal launcher. By the way, the previous owner of my boat reported he did set the spinnaker single handed. He used the ATN sleeve and an autopilot. I am not so adventurous. I like to have 3 aboard for spinnaker work in any breeze over 10 knots, or at least two in light air. If you try it single handed, then I recommend plenty of sea room and only lighter winds.

I’m the happy owner of an 800SW (no. 160) recently purchased. As such, I would like to ask for a bit of advice.

1) I have had no problem in mounting the barberhaulers as described in the user’s manual. However, it seems to me, that by combining the barberhauler for both the jib and the spi, you have to carry the (weight) burden of the twinblock which also needs to be hauled in (if you use it for the jib) and out (if you use it for the spi). A separate barberhauler for both the jib and the spi seems more logical to me. Granted, you are burdened with an extra line in the cockpit, but on the other hand the weight of the block (which does matter in light wind) is less on both the jib sheet and the! spi sheet with separate barber haulers. Furthermore, you should be able to find a more correct angle for the jib sheet barber hauler than the standard set up gives. Any comments on this? – has anyone tried to change the standard set-up?

2) From previous experience, I have found lazy jacks to be at great help in controlling the mainsail when lowering – especially when singlehanding. Now – a proper lazy jack system is not very difficult to install, but it needs either a topping lift or a fixed boom-vang to work (topping lift and lazy jacks cannot be combined, as this will snag the mainsail every time it is raised). Has any tried to fit either of these, or is there another solution which can control the mainsail and make it easier to lower, fold and stow singlehanded?

3) Flying a spinnaker is wonderfully easy compared to a keel boat. However, taking it down requires a trip across the trampoline to the ama in order to get hold of the sheet. This works beautifully! if you are at least 2 on board, and you also have the benefit of a good platform in the lee of the mainsail when lowering. If, on the other hand, you are singlehanding, and for safety reasons would like to stay in the cockpit, you are in trouble. As far as I see, there are 2 solutions which may work:
A) Lowering the spinnaker into the cabin (or a bag set into the hatch) inside the stays. This is done in a number of smaller keelboat classes, e.g. the H-boat and it works very well. In comparison to a (narrow) keel-boat this will require a downhaul in the spinnaker if you have to do it alone, for example a line fixed in the middle of the spi’s bottom leech. This probably could work and it would have the benefit of one being able to lower the spi in the lee of the mainsail. Setting it again might require you to haul the sheets and halyard around the forestay and reconnecting to the spi if required (according the new angle of the wind).
B) Installing a spinnaker “chute” i.e. a vertical “sock” and using a downhaul from the middle of the spinnaker to haul it into the chute. The Dragon uses a spinnaker chute – albeit set into the foredeck – and it seems to work well. The Dragon spinnaker though, is only half the size. On the other hand, I have seen Paul Elvström recommend a spinnaker chute for a 1/4-tonner which has a slightly larger size spi than a Dragonfly. The benefit will be that you do not have to haul the sheets and halyard around the forestay to accommodate a new wind angle and that the spinnaker will always be ready to be easily set – on the other hand you will have to lower the spinnaker without the benefit of having it in the lee of the other sails – this might be a handful if you are alone. Has anyone experimented with this?

I RECEIVED THE FOLLOWING NOTE FROM JENS Q REGARDING UPDATE OF FURLING SYSTEM. I HAVE NOT TAKEN ACTION ON IT YET. MY PLAN IS TO REFURBISH THE ONE I HAVE….

Dear Mr Erb,

We have in the later years used Profurl basic system type “S” on the DF800. Today we use Facnor, but obviously other brands can be used as well.

But, for these “normal” type furling systems, you have to install a halyard in the mast. In the deck you can either choose to make a bigger hole for this new drum, as it is bigger, or, if you do not want this, you can extend your existing forestay with a stainless chain plate, so you put the drum above deck level. These are the two options.

It will be cheaper for you to buy this locall! y, but we can of course also supply this – if you want a price, please let us know.

In case you decide to do this yourself, you can use the length of your existing forestay to make it exactly the same.

Best regards, Jens Quorning, QUORNING BOATS ApS

Anybody can send me the Rig facts (measurements) for Dragonfly 800 ?

Main sail luff lengh, main sail foot lengh, forestay heigth, main sheet distance from mast, roof top heigth above booms.

I need URGENT reply…. jpedro_sousa@hotmail.com

(see my question below from 11 Aug 2003)

A possible solution that has worked very well for us. The 3 pictures explains it all – any questions – please let me know.

Please click on the photo to see it enlarged!

The bobstay runs from the end of the bowsprit to the trailer towing-eye.

The angle is not ideal and it would perhaps be better to fit a special eye just above the waterline if you can get inside the bows to bolt it on.

The side stays run to the original eyes on the bow of each ama.

I only drilled through the hull, just above the deck to hull joint and bolted the windsurfer universal joint on. The f/g lay-up seems pretty thick and I fitted a large nylon washer on the outside.

Good luck.

P.S. Got my DF800 up to 20.5 kts a few times last weekend beam reaching with jib and 2 reefs. Windspeed 30 to 35 kts.

Some questions abaout using a surfingmast as bowspirit.

1. Do you fasten the bobstay att the end of the pole or halfway out?

3. Do you use the original eye for the bobstay, or have you fitted a lover eye closer to the waterline?

2. Do you use the original eyes on the amas or have you fitted extra eyes?

3. Did you only drill a hole in the boat, or did you make some kind off fitting to spread the loads?

Oops, my boat is a fixed beam D800. On a folding boat I would imagine that you should use snapshackles on the side stays of the bowsprit to make it easy when packing up the boat.
What also works is to lead the side stays from the bowsprit end to the ama bows and then to the back of the boat. You can then pull the pole and kite sideways for sailing at deeper angles. I must say I find it a bit of a pain if you sail with novice crew.
The rig I had earlier decribed is about as basic as you can get.Beside that, having a bowsprit makes your bout look super fast even when it is tied up in the dock. Also watch the other boats keep clear of you on the start line!!!!!!!!!!!I also suppose you can use it as an icebreaker in northern Europe right now?

Have fun, Frans Loots, all the way from St Francis Bay in sunny South Africa.

In reply to Matts Johansson.The easiest and least expensive way to fit a bowsprit is in fact to fit one with side stays.

This is how you do it:
You aim your DF800 at a boardsailor who has a mast in the colour which would look good on your DF800. Then you run him down!
Make sure you break his mast. Then you go and visit him to say you are sorry. Before you leave, ask him if you can have the broken mast and universal joint. If he says yes, cut the mast down to about 1,5 meters. Dill a small hole in the bow of the boat to bolt the universal joint onto the boat. You then run two side stays to the amas and a bobstay down to the towing eye. Use a snapshackle on the bobstay. This enables the pole to stow upright when mooring the boat.
Rig two thin lines to either side of the pulpit to keep the pole level. You also need to rig a spinnaker tackline to the tip of the bowsprit. Prefably a two-part tackle to make adjustments easy.

Thats it.
If you want to you can make the side stays adjustable for deep running.
Should you be unable to hit a boardsailor just go to a keen one. They all have lots of broken masts at home. Ask his wife, she would be quite happy to give you a broken one.

Have fun! Frans Loots, St Francis Bay, South Africa.

Has anyone mounted Easylock (or other) in order to fix the backstays when tightened, in order to use the winches for other purposes? Explanations, pictures or good ideas would be helpfull.

Thanks in advance, John

I bought a secondhand 800 but the boat had no reefing system. I would like to fit a SINGLE LINE reefing system and would really appreciate it if someone out there could e-mail or fax me how to rig it up.

Thanks in advance, Frans Loots. Sunny South Africa.

I have a std DF800 fixed wing (nr136) which I am very happy with.

Does anyone have some experience with the light wind genua (approx 20sqm) that Elvstrom sold with the early boats. I have one equipped with small Harken furler (very neat). I have tried a few times hoisting it either with the clew at the normal bow ring or out at my bowsprit (1.4 m).

Any idea of in what angles / wind to use this for optimum performance? Sheeting? Barberhaul or other system?

Thanks for any experience.

Experience with a mainsail furling system ? Erfahrung mit einem Roll-Reffsystem?

I intend to use a reefing system like “Hi-low reefer” (man. John Mast DK) or similar ? with a DF800 static wings/1989.

Does somebody have any experience in sailing in sense of handling, performance, Pro’s and Con’s… ?

Ich möchte ein Reffsystem für meinen DF800 static wings / 1989 einsetzen.

Hat jemand Erfahrung in Hinblick auf Leistungseinbuße, Handhabung, Vor- und Nachteile… ?

I have a second hand DF800 Mark2 from 1988 with still the original mainsail. I suppose the batten have lost stiffness over time because the profile of my sail is quite deep (concave). Could people having good experience in racing indicate how flat should the mainsail stay! I got the impression that the top of the sail has to remain quite flat in all wind situation ( which means new stiff and well tensioned top battens) and the curvature of the bottom should be controled mainly by the tension on the boom (moderate tension of the batten). Is non constant batten stiffness necessary?

Thanks in advance.

Sepp Lerchmueller requested the sail measurements for the cruising and the racing version of the DF800. Here are the current measurements of the sails:

Cruising:

Main Sail: Luff (vorliek):10.2m; Leech (Achterliek):10.25m; Foot (Unterliek): 2.9m (22.5m²)

Genoa: Luff (vorliek):8.6m; Leech (Achterliek):7.95m; Foot (Unterliek): 3.4m (13.5m²)

Racing:

Main Sail: Luff (vorliek):11.2m; Leech (Achterliek):11.2m; Foot (Unterliek): 2.9m (26m²)

Genoa: Luff (vorliek):9.07m; Leech (Achterliek):8.58m; Foot (Unterliek): 3.4m (14.5m²)

Please note these are only the measurements for the current Dragonlfy 800! Older boats have different measurements because of changes in the rig etc.!

Before ordering a new sail for your boat measure the old one or give it to the sailmaker, so that he can measure it!

Answer to: What is the advantage of using them (barberhauls) when sailing with the spinnaker?

Here is an explanation on how we use the spinnaker and barberhauls without a spinnaker pole:

The spinnaker is hoister from the leeward net, and the leeward barberhaul is fully released, and the windward barberhaul is fully tightened. When running from the wind, we release the windward barberhaul about 1 to 1,5 meters, and tighten the leeward slightly. This enables the spinnaker to fly, and really get into free air to windward. A jibe in lighter wind we just do with the both barberhauls released 1,5 meters, however in strong winds we tighten both barberhauls, and adjust the sheets to the same length (the spinnaker will then be centered to the boat), and the helmsman must steer into the middle of the spinnaker – and the main can be jibed very easily. In very strong winds, the jibe must be carried out at full speed, where the pressure on the main is the lightest. On the new course, the new leeward barberhaul is then released, and the windward adjusted according to wind angle. When dropping the spinnaker, a crewmember takes hold of the leeward spinnaker sheet, and the windward sheet is fully released. (releasing the windward sheet fully, is the most important part – ensure that the sheet can run freely beforehand). The bottom part of the spinnaker is gathered, and the halyard is released, and the spinnaker is taken into a bag on the leeward net.